The isolated island group of the Seychelles lies in the Indian Ocean, east of Africa and north of Madagascar, a tad south of the Equator. I had to look that up myself as, like most, I wasn't entirely sure. For world high-listers, it might not be a priority destination, as the number of species available is very limited. Really, you are looking at only around 60 species which are resident or regular, but there are several hundred which are vagrants. If you were chasing a Seychelles life list, you would need to invest considerable time and energy just to reach 200. But, goodness, if it is quality you seek, the islands have that in abundance.
There are 13 endemic species but, as they are scattered across several different islands, you would need to do a fair bit of island hopping to see them all, a fairly expensive proposition involving many boat trips and/or flights. However, in just a couple of days fantastic birding we managed to see 9 of the 13. And they are worth every bit of effort.
The Seychelles, in the Indian Ocean (Google Earth). Ireland is just out of view, top left, shivering in winter gloom.
Mahe, the main island with the bulk of the human population of around 70,000 (All photos, March 2019 by Michael O'Clery).
If you are arriving by international flight you will land on the largest island, Mahe, and there are a number of easily seen endemic species there. Here's a few.
Seychelles Swiftlet, Mahe, Seychelles.
An endemic species, and though not common, can be found on several islands, but the north end of Mahe is one of the easier spots to see them.
Seychelles Sunbird, Mahe, Seychelles.
Another endemic and, like many species unique to remote islands, the plumage often evolves to become much duller than their counterparts on the continental landmass. So, as a sunbird - the African version of hummingbirds - this is one of the least colourful, though the Seychelles male still has a beautiful iridescent blue throat.
Seychelles Blue Pigeon, Praslin, Seychelles.
Yet another relatively easy-to-see endemic and reasonably common in forest and gardens and present on most of the larger islands.
Seychelles Blue Pigeon, Mahe, Seychelles.
Although this is one of the most colourful and distinctive of the Seychelles endemics (though wait until you see the flycatcher, below), the bare red wattles on the crown give it the rather unsettling appearance of seeming to wear it's brain on the outside of it's head.
Barred Ground Dove, Mahe, Seychelles.
Common Myna, Mahe, Seychelles.
Common Mynas are common anywhere near human habitation.
Madagascar Fody, Mahe, Seychelles.
Though the Madagascar Fody was ubiquitous, there is a Seychelles Fody, confined to two small islands which we didn't get to, so we had to make do with the Madagascar version, introduced from the African mainland and common in all well-vegetated habitats.
Fairy Tern, Mahe, Seychelles.
Along the seafront, while enjoying an ice-cold beer at a seafront bar out of the ferocious midday sun, we noticed a Fairy Tern fly into a nearby tree, right over the heads of the oblivious sunbathers and strolling tourists. It was doing a bit of 'foot-paddling' on the little bit of leaf-litter on an indentation on the branch, a sign that it was thinking of laying it's single egg on that branch sometime soon. A precarious nest, but it seems to work for them.
Fairy Tern, Mahe, Seychelles.
Greater Frigatebird, Mahe, Seychelles.
Seychelles Fruit Bat, Mahe, Seychelles.
Not everything flying about is a bird. These huge bats could be seen at any time of day over woodland and forest. With a wingspan of about three feet they were, to our birding eyes, a weird mix of medium-sized raptor and Pterodactyl, and lent a really primeval feel to the forested landscape.
Madagascar Turtle Dove, Mahe, Seychelles.
This is perhaps the least welcome of the introduced species as, being closely related to the endemic Seychelles Turtle Dove, once it arrived on the islands it started to interbreed and the dominant Madagascar gene has rendered almost all Seychelles 'pale-blue-headed' versions unidentifiable. Apparently it is only on Bird Island, one of the remotest of the Seychelles island group, where they still have their distinctive pale blue head and the credentials to being a full, 'undiluted' species. Extinction by genetic dilution.
White-tailed Tropicbird, Mahe, Seychelles.
This is a real 'wow!' bird and strangely, for a seabird, it was far more often seen drifting high over tropical forests, soaring on ridges and peaks. They nest in tree cavities, so are either scouring the forests for suitable nest holes, or defending ones which they might already occupy.
Seychelles White-eye site, Mahe, Seychelles.
One of the most difficult endemics to see, other than Seychelles Scop's Owl, is now the Seychelles White-eye, mainly because the numbers have dropped precariously in recent years. On Mahe there are only 50 individuals surviving, and we managed to see two. There is one other population on a small island nearby where there are around 200 individuals, but that's it. In the whole world. 250 birds left on the planet, and declining. Without our guide Steve (see the end of this post for contact details - he is highly recommended), I doubt we could have dug this one out.
Seychelles White-eye. One of only 250 individuals left on the planet. We saw two - 0.8% of all the birds that are left.
On day two, we were able to see one of my own bucket-list birds as soon as we walked down to the mudflats with Steve. A Crab Plover. Then at least six more. What a bird! A strange cross between an Avocet and a gull, and one which I had longed to see since I was old enough to pick up a field guide.
Crab Plover. Mahe, Seychelles.
The mudflats and mangroves on Mahe, with Crab Plover and other goodies.
Here's some more of the mudflat and wetland goodies.
Crab Plover, Mahe, Seychelles.
Greater Sandplover, Mahe, Seychelles.
Lesser Crested Tern, Mahe, Seychelles.
Striated Heron, Mahe, Seychelles.
A recent natural colonist of the Seychelles has been Yellow Bittern. They now nest on the islands having arrived from the Indian Subcontinent, though numbers are still small, and they are a secretive bird. Again, without Steve, we would have struggled to see this bird. As it happened, it took nearly two intensive hours to finally clap eyes, binoculars and then cameras onto this bird.
Yellow Bittern, Mahe, Seychelles.
Forest on Mahe, Seychelles.
Much of the north and east upland area of Mahe Island is a national park, and home to some amazing endemic birds. High on our wish-list was Seycehlles Scops Owl but before that, Steve treated us to close-up views of another Seychelles endemic...
Seychelles Kestrel, Mahe, Seychelles.
After that we had to await dusk and the hoped-for strange grunting call of Seychelles Scop's Owl in this surreal upland tropical forest, where huge fruit bats were crashing clumsily into trees above us, fireflies were winking in and out of view, and strange insects called, chirped and beeped. As darkness fell, with no sight or sound of the owls, we thought the birds were maybe gone from this spot but, faintly at first, then closer, we heard them. It soon became apparent that two birds were calling - a pair. After about an hour of careful listening and finally homing in on the calls we got wonderful views of one bird at first, then both birds as they were mating. I shall draw a discreet veil over proceedings but suffice to say that, in the owl world, sex does not take long. An amazing experience to finally see a bird we had only dreamed of seeing, never mind seen shagging. Dogging, Seychelles style.
(no photo, so as not to disturb the birds in their, ahem, activities, but here's one from the wonderful IBC archive, see HERE.
Seychelles Scop's Owl is found only in the upland forest of Mahe island, the total population numbering just 250 individuals. It is listed as Critically Endangered.
After enjoying the forest and wetlands of Mahe we took a fast ferry to two other islands, La Digue for the Seychelles Paradise Flycatcher and Praslin for Seychelles Black Parrot. Before that though, we elbowed our way to the front of the boat for the best views of any seabirds which might be seen on the one hour boat trip. A fast ferry is not the best way to enjoy lingering views of whatever might pass so we had to be on constant high alert as we roared across the 25km sea journey, but we did manage some decent birds en route.
Flesh-footed Shearwater, Seychelles.
Lesser Noddy, Seychelles.
Brown and Lesser Noddy were present in small flocks, as were Fairy Terns, Wedge-tailed Shearwaters, and a couple of Lesser Crested Terns and one Crested Tern near the islands.
Tropical Shearwater, Seychelles.
Tropical Shearwaters are pretty similar to our own Manx Shearwater, a little smaller, and a little duskier underneath, but I don't think you will have to worry about this one on a seawatch off Brandon Point.
La Digue, home of the Seychelles Paradise Flycatcher.
Seychelles Paradise Flycatcher, La Digue, Seychelles.
And what a charismatic bird! The male is a remarkable looking animal and, despite the ridiculously long tail, it can dart about the dark forest under-storey with remarkable speed and agility. Just 250 to 300 individuals on this small island, though it has also recently been successfully translocated to two more tiny islands nearby.
Seychelles Paradise Flycatcher, La Digue, Seychelles.
The female, though lacking the long tail, is still a beautiful bird.
Seychelles Paradise Flycatcher, La Digue, Seychelles.
Males also have this remarkable electric blue mouth and eye which positively glows in the relative darkness of the forest.
Wonder what's for dinner?
View out to sea from La Digue, Seychelles.
And so to our next island, Praslin, for Seychelles Black Parrot.
Praslin Island, Seychelles.
Praslin Island, at a spot were we saw two Seychelles Black Parrots, and also seriously contemplated if it was possible to sell up in Ireland and buy a little house on the coast here, just on that headland on the upper left...
My accountant says no.
Seychelles Black Parrot, Praslin, Seychelles.
Looking at a field guide, you would think this bird would be one of the least impressive of the parrot family, being, well, just an all black parrot really. No colour, no distinguishing plumage features other than being, well, all-black. This photo is largely silhouette but honestly, you aren't missing anything. It's a parrot that is all black. But it is a bird full of character. The variety of calls alone made it a quiet favourite of mine. Expressive whistles and pure notes which seemed to have real meaning and no doubt important messages to other parrots within earshot. It sounded like intelligence in song form. I was quite captivated.
Of course, I could be wrong, and I was merely being anthropomorphic. I have often wished that dogs could talk so that, for example, my rescue dog could tell me about her undoubtedly awful life before she was rescued, and then tell me the address of the puppy farm where she was incarcerated for five years, where I could pop by, armed with at least a few harsh words. But I also suspect that once I had heard her undoubtedly amazing and harrowing history, the conversation might thereafter just be along the lines of, "Can we chase a ball now?". "I'm hungry, can I have food?". "I'm still hungry, can I have some of that nice chicken food?" "Can we chase a ball now?" "Any chance of a bit of food?"...
Maybe the parrots are singing the same thing?... "Where's the fruit at? I'm hungry...". I don't know.
Seychelles Black Parrot, Praslin, Seychelles.
One more endemic, Seychelles Bulbul, Praslin, Seychelles.
The parrot was the last of our wish-list birds for this trip. Time and budget simply didn't allow for more islands and more endemics. We spent the last day in a kind of tortuous hell. Trapped in a beach-side restaurant, numbed by copious gin and tonics, exhausted by bathing in tropical seas and tormented by dining on wonderful food. But hey, as a serious World Birder, shit happens. You just gotta deal with it.
If you ever get the chance to go, go.
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Below, Steve Agricole, Bird Guide. If you are looking for an experienced bird guide to show you some of the Seychelles specialities, look no further. Contact Steve at this email HERE.
